Contracts are now closed and will likely never open again. I have a few contracts in the works with people, but those are the last ones I'm accepting.

It's just tough working with 25 people and only 1 end up paying for a contract. It's a lot of quoting for very few contracts to go through. I've decided to close contracts for that reason and to spend more time on projects of my own.

I will still be selling blasters on my webstore, but they won't be made to customer specifications - they'll be sold however I originally modify them.

To see what I do have for sale, visit my webstore: freewebstore.org/coop772

Hey guys,

I'm launching a new Nerf forum as an expansion of my YouTube channel. Its main purpose is for the organization of my modifications and to be able to link people text information in the description box of a video. But I've also added a member area where viewers can discuss Nerf modifications, homemades, and other things related to Nerf.

Joining is free and pretty quick. There are forum rules posted in every section, please read them before posting.

Find it here: http://coop772.forumotion.com/

Consider this a "soft opening" as I won't be mentioning this forum in a video for about a week.

If you choose to join the forum to spam or troll, I will IP ban you without even hesitating. This is supposed to be a laid back forum to discuss our nerdy hobby, not a place for trash talking or spamming.

- Coop

I'm actually away for the holiday break, so I have closed contracts. They will reopen in mid January when I return.

I shot about 6-7 videos before I left so I'll be releasing those as I get time to edit and compress them. As a preview, some of them include: Setting another Nerf blaster on fire, another Nerf Stryfe overview, dry brushing tutorial, FireStrike review, and an HvZ loadout video.

Some images just for fun :)
Stryfe:

This post is to share the knowledge I have collected over the years. I don't know what else to put in the intro, so I'll just get to the good shit...

Foam/ FBR/ Foam Backer Rod/ Caulk Saver

Color
Recovery rate
You want a color that has a high contrast to the ground color where you play. I play in parks, which includes green grass. So I want foam that has a high contrast to green, such as red or white.

Personalize
Having a color of foam that is unique to you will allow you to pick your darts out of the dart stash easier. Also, if someone has the same looking darts as you (foam, length, and tip style) but uses a different weight than you, you're likely to pick it up and shoot it back expecting it to fly like your darts. However, this will cause you to misjudge the angle of your blaster because every weight affects the dart's trajectory in a unique way. Knowing exactly what your dart will do when it leaves the barrel is very important for consistency and accuracy.

Size
1/2"foam backer road is the most common, but anything will work as long as it fits your barrel and blasters. Many people use 1/2" PVC fittings, so 1/2" darts work well as far as barrel compatibility goes.

While 1/2” is considered a Micro Stefan, 5/8” is a Mega Stefan. These could fit in some stock blasters that are designed to work with mega darts. These darts typically do not fly as far or fast as micro darts, but can be a lot of fun.

Density
The density of the foam is difficult to explain with words. There are typically two types of foam, dense and squishy.

Dense foam lasts a little longer than squishy foam. It also, won't deform as much if abused, such as being stepped on or handled roughly with the hands while loading. However, dense foam is not as accepting to different barrel types. It takes a bit longer to tune the barrel set-up to be perfect, because the foam will not deform much in the barrel and fit itself to the barrel.

Squishy foam, in some ways, is the opposite. Because it's squishy, it won't last quite as long because every force that is applied to it will affect the foam slightly. However, because it moves so easily, it will conform to pretty much any barrel you put it in, so they're much for flexible for temperature changes during wars or just using different barrels.

I like scavenging squishy foam at wars because I know it will work fairly well in my barrels. If you use squishy foam, and are used to its ability to conform in barrels, then scavenge dense foam at a war, it's unlikely the darts will fly well with your barrel set-up.

In general:
Dense = last longer
Squishy = more flexible barrel materials


Blank Length
The blank length obviously affects the dart length (blank length is the length of your dart minus the tip). There is not one “best” length to use for any application. This length comes down to personal preference and your play style. I'm making generalizations in this section, you may see different results with other techniques, foam, or barrel set-ups.

The accepted lengths of stefan darts vary from 1” - 2.5” inches. 1.25” - 1.5” is very common, because you get the “best” of both options.

The longer the dart, the more stable it is, to a point. A 2.5” stefan dart, with the same weight, tip, and foam, will fly much straighter and more predictable than a 1” dart.  However, a 1” dart is much easier to load into a barrel/barrel system and you can fit many more stefans in the same sized magazine with shorter darts.

So there is a trade-off of capacity and dart stability. Cost of foam and air friction are also relevant factors, but I don't want to get into them :/

In general:
Long = stable
Short = capacity


Weight
The purpose of the weight is to add stability to the dart in the air. The weight is added as far forward as possible in order to increase range and projectile stability. Generally speaking, the more weight the better range. I've used the analogy of throwing a foam ball with your arm. Then throwing a baseball. Then throwing a bowling ball. You'll most likely throw the baseball the furthest, because it's all about finding the weight that can fight through air resistance, but not be too much to overwhelm your power source.

Watch out adding too much weight, though. Generally, more weight = more pain when fired at a person. Most hosts set a limit on how much weight you can have in your darts because they don't want people getting hurt.

Recently, there has been a movement to find a new, safer weight for the front of darts. In my opinion, felt pads covering pretty much anything is safe enough. If you want to play it safe, just use stock darts. Or, you know, clean the sand out of your vagina. :)

Here are some common weights used in stefan darts. This is not a "full" list or every option, these are just some common ones.

Washers
Washers were used in the original "Slug darts" posted by CaptainSlug on NerfHaven. Washers have the advantage of placing all of their mass in the very front of the dart. This helps the stability of the dart quite a bit. However, washer darts are probably the weakest darts as far as longevity goes. Because of the attachment style, these darts often fall apart after a few wars, which is frustrating.

3/0 Fishing Weights
3/0 fishing weights are used my fisherman to make their hook drop in the water. I'm not a fisherman, but I have used these weights to make stefan darts. They are great because of their size/weight ratio. They are very easy to place in darts because they're fairly small, but they're still heavy which gives your blasters more range with these darts.

But watch out, these are often made of lead, which is poisonous. So if be sure to wash your hands after dart smithing and make sure to pick all of the darts up after use. You don't want the dart to degrade and have a bird or small child to find the lead ball.

Ball Bearings
Ball bearings are what I most recently used for my stefan darts. These are slightly easier to work with than 3/0 weights because of their nearly perfect shape. In their nature use, in bearings, it is imperative that these are perfectly round. This makes creating consistent stefans that much easier. Also, these aren't made of lead, which is a plus

I used 3/16" diameter ball bearings and was quite happy with the results. Their weight is roughly the same as a 3/0 weight, which is more than copper BB's and less than a 1/4" slingshot weight.

1/4" Slingshot Weights
Ah, the infamous slingshot weight. These are often banned at wars because of their weight. They are quite heavy, which means the darts inflict more pain to people on impact. These weights are commonly used as slingshot ammo. They are typically fairly round, but often have a flat portion. Their shape makes them consistent when making darts, which is very important.

Although, the fact they are 1/4" in diameter poses problems. If you aren't accurate with your initial hole for the weight, the slingshot weight will be off center and may be pushed out of the foam if fired from a powerful blaster. This can be countered by just making sure the initial hole is centered, making the weight rest in the center of the foam.

I currently use slingshot weights in my stefans in order to achieve better ranges.

Copper BB's
Copper BB's seem to be what most people start with, when making their first stefan darts. Copper BB's are meant to be used as ammo in BB guns. They are very small spheres, and typically quite consistent in shape. These weights are great for very lower powered blasters, but are too light for most primaries. However, some nerfers simply place two BB's into their initial dart hole to add more mass to their stefans. While this does work, it is very hard to make these consistently and this method often leads to terrible accuracy.

Because many other weight options must be purchased online, copper BB's are a great start if you've never made stefans. Though, if you're seeking maximum range out of your Nerf blasters, I would suggest finding another option.

6mm Airsoft BB's
Airsoft BB's are commonly used by “teh noobs” in Nerf. Airsoft BB's are a terrible idea for stefan darts. They're plastic and have a very low weight, which is worse than copper BB's. I would highly suggest not using these at all.

Think mass, not shape. 6mm airsoft BB's are terrible, they're light and large.


Tip
The tip of the dart is very important, but is also going to change quite a bit depending on where you're from. Hosts have different rules when it comes to tips, most of the time these rules are based around safety.

There are two common types of tips, hot glue and felt pads. There are more types coming out, but none that are a good alternative to these and that are widely used.

Hot Glue Tip
Hot glue tips are simply a blob of hot glue on top of your weight. The purpose of the hot glue is to keep the weight inside the foam, and to absorb energy on impact. While hot glue is pretty hard when dry, it will still bend a bit on impact making it safer than a metal/other hard material tip.

Pros of Hot Glue
- Cheaper than felt tips
- Faster to make than felt tips
- Hot glue can be found locally fairly easily
- Better aerodynamics = better range

Cons of Hot Glue:
- Banned many places
- Inflicts more pain on target

Felt Tips
I believe the idea of using felt tips was introduced by Captain Slug in his tutorial on how to make “Slug darts.” These darts were widely accepted because they can be more consistent than hot glue dome darts and inflict much less pain.

The consistency comes from taking out human error. There isn't a dome to be made by hand, just a tip to be attached. So, theoretically, you can make better, more consistent darts which would improve your accuracy. This accuracy really comes down to how straight you cut your foam though.

The reduced pain comes from the use of a felt tip and broadening the surface area of the dart's weight. The felt tip is much softer than a hot glue tip, so it doesn't hurt as much to get hit by a slug. This makes games more fun when there isn't fear of pain when rushing someone. I don't care how tough you are, taking a 1/4” slingshot weighted hot glue stefan to the face stings.

Pros of Felt Tips:
- Safer
- Allowed at more wars
- You can safely use a heavier weight

Cons of Felt Tips:
- Harder to find locally, most people order online
- More expensive
- Harder to make
- Slightly less durable

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So I believe that wraps up my article. The goal of this article was to discuss the aspects of the stefan dart and share information I've learned over the years of playing with Nerf blasters. I reserve the right to amend this document as I see necessary if I learn new things in the future regarding these topics. Hopefully you learned something.

- Coop
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Links:
My dart testing data: http://www.coop772.com/articles/darttesting

CaptainSlug's “Slug dart” post: http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=22986

Ryan's overall stefan post: http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=23034

NerfHaven's dart directory: http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4646


Materials Mentioned:
McMaster felt pads: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3762/=joq5vz

#6 washers: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3218/=joq6ae

#8 washers: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3218/=joq676

Slingshot weights: http://www.amazon.com/Marksman-MS3100-Steel-Shot-250ct/dp/B000Q9F2U8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1350038960&sr=8-3&keywords=1%2F4+slingshot

Copper BB's: http://www.amazon.com/Crosman-Copperhead-Copper-Coated-Bottle/dp/B000HKKY7M/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1350038985&sr=1-1&keywords=copper+bb

I'm still asked quite frequently for write-ups on certain blasters or other information that is readily available but not posted on my channel. I'm surprised that many of my viewers have not heard of Nerf Haven. Nerf Haven is a forum for Nerf modifications, home-mades, and NIC wars.

Check it out: http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?s=771230e76e1818e0d49282c33339b141&act=idx

Please note: I am NOT a moderator of Nerf Haven. I have absolutely NO power or "say" on anything that goes on with this forum. Please do not come whining to me when you get banned or your content is insulted. People are harsh here and a decent level of intelligence is required to continue posting. If you try to troll, spam, or you're an idiot, you'll very likely get banned.

I've updated my site to offer international shipping! I realize I have many potential buyers outside the US and now I'm willing to ship any item on my webstore internationally. Now, when checking out, please select the country from the list and the correct cost will be added to your cart to cover shipping. The listed countries are United States (implying contiguous US), Canada, Singapore, Australia, and England. If you'd like to place and order from outside the US but your country isn't listed, please email me at Coop772@gmail.com and I'll get a quote for your area.

The past reasons for denying international shipping are nothing personal, it's not like I hate foreigners or anything. While I do like my country, I wouldn't say "you're not an American, so F*$( YOU!" I'm not a COMPLETE dick! I've only denied international shipping in the past because of the hassle international shipping brings with customs forms and packing regulations.

Link to webstore: http://freewebstore.org/coop772

- Coop

I'm hosting a Nerf war in Columbus, OH on September 29th, 2012. If you're a modder and want to test out your gear, come out and play with us! We're a welcoming group always looking for more players. Even if your blasters are terrible, you'll probably still have a good time. We don't play to win, we play for fun - it is a pretty silly hobby after all!


For more information, check out: http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=23074&st=0

I was going to make a video on the topic of batteries, but I realized a written  article would be easier to read and the video element wouldn't add much. So here is some information on the different types of battery options for your Nerf blasters.

My personal opinion :
If you're looking for a battery replacement option, I'd stick with 9v batteries or the UltraFire type batteries. They are light, small, and can increase performance fairly quickly. I'm listing out the pros and cons so you can make the decision for yourself.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Normal “AA” or “D” batteries
“Normal” batteries are just standard alkaline batteries that you can buy in many stores. They aren't rechargeable and usually run at 1.5v.

Pros:
- Availability
- Initial cost
Cons:
- Long-term cost
- Standard voltage
- One time use
 
Rechargeable AA batteries
No introduction needed.

Pros:
- Long-term cost
- Rechargeable
Cons:
- Initial cost
- Standard voltage

UltraFire / Trustfire batteries
These are two name brands for Lithium Ion batteries. I'm referring to the size 14500, which is the size of a AA battery. If purchasing these batteries, be sure to buy the size 14500, rechargeable (they are available in single-use style), and with unprotected cells to get the battery that I'm referring to here.

Pros:
- 3.6v per battery, large voltage increase
- Rechargeable
- Long battery life
- Lighter than standard alkalines
- Long term cost
Cons:
- Initial cost
- Can't use in other non-nerf devices without risking damage

9v Battery Packs
No introduction needed.

Pros:
- Increased voltage over most blaster voltage
- Initial cost
- Light weight
- Small
Cons:
- Long term cost
- Voltage isn't as flexible, only moves in 9v increments
- Battery life

 
RC Battery packs – NiCd or NiMH
To be honest, I would not recommend RC battery packs in Nerf guns unless you also have a hobby that will use the packs. I think they are too expensive and not what we're looking for Nerf batteries to be purchased ONLY for Nerf guns.

Pros:
- Battery capacity
- Rechargeable
Cons:
- Size
- Weight
- Initial cost
- Lower voltage options

RC Battery packs – Lipo

Expansion of RC packs. I still wouldn't recommend these, but will cover them.

Pros:
- Lighter than standard RC packs
- Faster output than standard RC packs (not as important for our use)
Cons:
- Higher cost than standard RC packs
- Require a specific charger
- Can be dangerous to charge and maintain if you don't know what you're doing.

I've been receiving quite a few questions and comments regarding my video style, my outlook on YouTubeLand, and my viewers. I'd like to clear a few things up.

- I know I am not the best Nerf modder in the world. I have never claimed any such thing. I can name over 5 people off the top of my head that have more skill, creativity, and cleanliness than me. While I am always trying to get better at the hobby, I will never claim to be the best. Ever.

- I absolutely refuse to use untrue propaganda to catch views and attention on YouTubeLand. I find it absolutely appalling when a user will use false tags or loaded words in their titles just to get views. I try to title my videos as accurately as I can because I only want them to be found by people that are searching for them. I will not mislead a viewer and tell them my modification is the "BEST" just because I took out an AR and put in a new spring. That's retarded.

- I seek the respect of the NIC, not the YouTube community. No offense to anyone that only searches for modifications on YouTube, but I don't consider myself a huge part of that community. I upload videos often, but I very rarely watch other Nerf videos on YouTube. I just don't want to watch 10 minutes of someone speaking without editing, it's a waste of time. This is also a huge motivation for my tight editing and style of videos - they're guided towards viewers like myself.

- I am an NIC Nerfer, not an HvZ Nerfer. Now, I will not go as far to say that NIC wars are better, but I can say as fact that they are very different hobbies. The thought that goes into the modifications are very different as well as the execution. I have done quite a few videos on stock dart firing blasters, but most of those are with the intent to use at an NIC zombie round or in a basement war.
*Just in case anyone was confused by the style of my modifications or thought to themselves "why wouldn't you do [x], it would be way better for zombies!"*